Although hyaluronic acid sounds sort of scary and can be difficult to pronounce, it turns out this naturally-occurring ingredient harbors superpowers that can instantly plump your skin and make it look tighter, smoother, and a whole lot younger. Wondering whether it’s for you? Don’t. “It’s great for every single person on the planet,” confirms qualified pharmacist, Yogita, medical director of SkinRx Aesthetic Clinic. Here’s why every skin type should give it a go:
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Present in all connective tissues and found in high concentrations in the viscous fluid that surrounds your eyes and cushions your joints, hyaluronic acid is a protein that attracts moisture and can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water—impressive!
The thing is, production of hyaluronic acid in the skin tapers off as you age. It’s one reason why many injectable fillers are designed to supplement the skin’s stores. Alternatively, applying hyaluronic acid, which can be found in serums, moisturizers, lip plumpers, and cosmetics ranging from lipstick to eye shadow, can help bring moisture back to the skin.
Benefits of Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare: What It Does for Your Skin
Because most hyaluronic acid molecules tend to be too large to penetrate the skin, topical treatments don’t always reach the deepest layers of the skin. Meaning? They can’t necessarily improve your appearance in the long run. That said, hyaluronic acid-containing products do provide the following temporary benefits, which should last about as long as the product remains on your skin:
- Plumps the skin and lips
Although the ingredient is unlikely to affect the skin’s actual structure, it still binds with water to make your skin appear plumper and more hydrated immediately upon application, so you’ll notice an improvement as soon as you apply it.
- Reduces fine lines
Hyaluronic acid draws in water to temporarily fill out fine lines upon application, according to Yogita, who warns not to skimp on the eye area. “Your skin thins as you age, and the eyelids already comprise some of the thinnest skin on your body,” she says. “Most people are nervous to use their skincare products around their eyes, but if you can tolerate it, it’s prudent to use products there to prevent a crepe-like appearance.”
When using hyaluronic acid as part of an anti-aging skin routine, you might as well go all in. “I’m all for using smart skincare formulations that contain multiple ingredients,” Yogita says. “I love products that contain both hyaluronic acid and antioxidants like vitamin C, which we know can improve your skin.”
- Makes it easier to apply makeup evenly
Anyone who’s ever attempted to apply lip colour to chapped lips knows it’s an impossible pursuit. Hyaluronic acid’s ability to hold moisture means it immediately smooths the surface of the skin so concealer, foundation, and yes, even lipstick go on much smoother. (For this reason, Yogita says it’s a great ingredient to look for in makeup itself or a makeup primer, in addition to a dedicated hyaluronic acid-containing serum or moisturizing cream.)
- It may improve the effectiveness of your moisturizer
Hyaluronic acid attracts moisture, so layering a serum that contains it under a dedicated moisturizer is like giving the ingredient something to grasp on to. “It creates this double-smoothing effect that locks moisture in,” Yogita says.
Does Hyaluronic Acid Help Acne?
It’s clear that hyaluronic acid is a master moisturizer. But there’s a persistent myth that adding moisture to acne-prone skin can make breakouts worse. “People underestimate just how much dry skin contributes to acne,” Yogita says. “They don’t want to moisturize because they’re worried they’ll get more breakouts, so they overprocess their skin and things get worse.”
The truth is that overwashing and exfoliating causes dryness and irritation that compromises the skin barrier. This blocks the hair follicles, the tiny pores where acne-causing propionibacterium acnes (aka P. acnes) live and multiple, causing further inflammation and—you guessed it—breakouts.
Hydrating inflamed skin can help it heal to function more optimally, Yogita says—and hyaluronic acid can definitely help here.
Potential Side Effects of Using Hyaluronic Acid on Your Skin
Although you might associate “acid” with chemical burns, you can apply hyaluronic acid and rest easy whether you have sensitive skin or have been burned by harsh products in the past. “Hyaluronic acid is very gentle, so it’s very, very rare to have an adverse reaction to it,” Yogita says. “If you react to a product that contains it, chances are it’s the fault of another ingredient.”
The Bottom Line
The benefits of hyaluronic acid may not be permanent, but with regular application, they really don’t have to be. “It doesn’t really matter whether hyaluronic acid can really penetrate the skin and make long term changes,” Yogita says. “We know that it sits there attracting water, which makes your skin look great.”